I awake with a start. A carload of men shout frantically at me, gesturing and pointing along the road. I’d only dozed off in the driving seat for a few minutes. We’d arrived on the edge of a tiny hill village, and John the photographer went ahead to look for locations, leaving me behind to avoid the possibility of wedging this wide new Ferrari into some tiny ancient alleyway. So he’s nowhere to be seen, and I am being – possibly – ambushed. This region is home to the ‘Fifth Mafia’, the Basilischi. I dunno, these guys are grinning and making camera gestures. My instinct says they’ve been commissioned by John to direct me to his photo op. I tag along behind their car, up a road that narrows and twists and eventually arrives at the gateway to an isolated cemetery. Great.
Photography: John Wycherley
This feature was originally published in the May 2016 issue of Top Gear Magazine.