Carbon copy: the watch industry has been using carbon fibre for decades

Carbon fibre is heavily used in aviation, aerospace, defence and renewable energy sectors, as well as in cars. In terms of carbon fibre visibility, cars are way out in front, with watches now clinging to the slipstream. However, what you see is not always what you get.

For every Koenigsegg with a full carbon monocoque, there are countless lesser motors where the crystalline weave is just for show. Sometimes it is the real thing, but often it is just coloured plastic, or vinyl stickers hiding cheap plastics underneath.

Watchmakers and carmakers face the same problem: carbon fibre strands can be teased out only under extremely high temperature in dedicated facilities, so the whole process is pricey and labour intensive. Printing a carbon fibre pattern costs sod all, so you can see the temptation.

There are all manner of budget watches with faux carbon trim. But the real thing is out there. Audemars Piguet began experimenting with carbon fibre cases in the 1990s, and other high end manufacturers started making commercially available pieces in the early 2000s.

Megabucks manufacturer Richard Mille was among the other early adopters of carbon. In recent years, however, production costs have lessened and carbon is no longer just for billionaires.

Pro tip

How to spot the fake stuff – it’s all in the weave. Real carbon fibre is made up of interlacing strands, creating a distinct weave with visible depth and a 3D texture, whereas repro carbon is flat. If you are unsure, context is your biggest guide, just like when you buy anything. A top end watch shop is no more likely to peddle faux fibre than try and flog you moody gold.