Just like cars, watches that look old and used are cool

When you buy a classic car, gracefully aged upholstery and bodywork is all part of the story. Same thing with old watches – a vintage Rolex with an original dial is far better than a shiny replacement. And it’s not just the secondhand market where you see an appreciation for the well worn look.

Some watchmakers sell models that appear old even when they are brand new. A Panerai is a good example. The model has barely changed visibly since the first one was launched in the 1930s, and it also has a case made from ‘patina steel’, sandblasted to give it a dullened, matte appearance.

If you want your watch to age as you wear it, bronze is a good option. Copper in the alloy oxidises on contact with air and moisture and will change colour, getting darker and often developing unique greenish patterns over time.

If you prefer your metal precious, gold can age rather nicely, if less noticeably than bronze. Pure gold is chemically inert and will not age, but you cannot use 24k for watches as it is far too soft. And when you mix it with other metals like copper, silver or zinc to make watches, the other metals can react over time, subtly changing the colour.

Whatever metal you choose, it can pick up dings and dents with use. But worry not, this affection for the aged look means that far from worrying about imperfections, your watch should wear them as a sign of a life well lived.

Pro tip

You want to take care of your watch, but it pays to focus on the inside first. A mechanical movement can outlive its owner if it’s serviced properly and at sensible intervals. Scratches, knocks and worn edges are just aesthetics. The oily bits matter more. A well maintained movement is what keeps a watch alive.