Watches: when did integrated metal bracelets become a Thing?

Watchmaking was a mixed bag in the 1970s. The arrival of quartz brought reliable watches for all, but also put loads of old companies out of business. To survive, you needed to up your game, and one of the decade’s many innovations is now enjoying a big revival.

The integrated bracelet played a big part in the evolution of the wristwatch. Originally watches made specifically for the wrist used leather or fabric straps. Articulated metal bracelets did not become widespread until the middle of the century, and initially they were attached to the case with the same lug and bar system as soft straps.

Watch design legend Gérald Genta produced his two most famous pieces in the 1970s: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Both had bracelets that were designed as part of the watch, with links flowing directly into the case. This gave a streamlined look and also made a bold statement.

Those two watches are still in production today and their legacy spreads far. The integrated bracelet is a notable feature in the Land-Dweller, one of Rolex’s most significant new releases for years. And the design is not just at the posh end. Almost every watchmaker has one in the lineup somewhere. Some, like Bell & Ross, are fairly new to it, while Tissot got in on the act decades ago. Very different watches, all with nice a twist of 1970s style.

Pro tip: How to spot a quality bracelet

The metal watch bracelet is a clever piece of kit, with each link connected to the next by a little hinge kept in place with tiny pins or screws. Cheaper bracelets are generally made with little folded pieces of sheet metal. You can see the folds up close, but you can generally tell right away just by the flimsy feel.